First of all print out the blade in the size you need.Then cut it out roughly.P1010351Glue it onto your polypropylene sheet. Use water based glue, will explain later why.P1010352Like this you can cut our the image and the polypropylene sheet at the same time.P1010353P1010354P1010355I also draw or press along the design of the blade. Since my pen is empty, I only press along the lines. A pen is easier to work with, would’nt recommend to use a knife here.P1010356A rough sketch of the design is seen here after the pen pressure trick.Now remove the image, cut out the rest of it, and what left is the plastic sheet you are going to work with. Clean the cutout from the glue or you’ll have a sticky base.P1010357P1010360Shaping the edges here, because the blade is going to be sharp and pointy.So we can’t have bold edges here.P1010361
Done, now up we go to the sculpting.

Alright, and here starts the sculpting process. Here’s what I needed for this.

  • Knife
  • small screwdriver
  • small soft brush
  • cup of water
  • Apoxie Sculpt

Alright, before I start with sculpting at all, I need to decide where to start first.I decided to start with the handle. With this I can either do the pommel next, or do the blade. The thought of it is, to finish the blade of woe step by step, since Apoxie Sculpt cures fast and I don\’t have the time to work in the whole blade for too long.P1010364Starting with the handle, I compare the handle with the ingame model on my TV screen. It’s easier to figure out how thick this needs to be.P1010365And with the pattern I have carved into the polypropylene sheet, I can’t miss the place where I need to stop adding Apoxie.P1010367The handle will of course be wrapped with leather.P1010371Usually, I let the Apoxie Sculpt cure about 8h, one night max before starting with a new layer. When not in mood to wait for too long, I work with it as soon as it’s in a “sandable” state.P1010372
P1010374I can always add Apoxie later, when everything fails.Or sand it to remove.P1010375
P1010378Shaping the pommel was a bit difficult. I needed a few attempts to get it right.P1010379And carving the details here with my trusty screwdriver.P1010380
P1010384Is it too much? Could always cover it with Apoxie…P1010386This is done and now I wait until it\’s fully cured.P1010387Now onto the blade itself.How and where to start?P1010388I decide to start with the “back” of the blade, and then shaping the sharp part later.P1010389
P1010390Smoothing the surface out with water.P1010391
P1010395Here are the details done and before working on tha sharp side, I let it cure.P1010396The blade needs sanding. It\’s too uneven to really use this as base.P1010398not done yet…P1010401And fixing a few parts.P1010403Finally starting with the deadly side of the blade.P1010404
P1010408Only one side is ready, still the other side of the blade to go.This needs sanding, but I won’t show the process here, it can be seen in previous pictures. It’s just all about sanding ;)P1010409Oh god, now goes the other side…P1010410Same process, just working with a mirrored image.P1010411
P1010412Carving here the first lines of the pattern.P1010413Actually screwed up the pattern on this side, so I decided to let everything cure.Then sanded the base.P1010419
P1010420What did happen here?Well, I did wait for too long before starting with the carving. As Apoxie cures slow, I took to much time to work on the blade and almost forgot about the “eye” pattern.When I started with the carving it already was too hard to shape it.P1010421
P1010422Ok, since I screwed up the pattern, I just sculpt the pattern on top of the cured base later.P1010423
P1010424Fixing here a few spots.P1010425
P1010427After the well known sanding process, this is the last big part of work now.P1010428
P1010429And done!P1010430Before sculpting the notches, I sanded the whole blade until I was satisfied.P1010432Sanding here the blade and give it a used look.P1010433Abused the blade a bit more, it\’s not called Blade of Woe without reason.P1010434And this is what the blade looks so far.P1010435Next goes the mold box making.

with the materials I need:

  • polypropylene sheet
  • knife
  • cup of water
  • sulfur free clay

I create a mold box for my blade.Cut the polypropylene sheet in a proper size. It needs enough space around the whole blade. Especially on the bottom. If there’s too little silicone there, the liquids might find a way out later… and that’s not what we want, right? So give extra space to the bottom. The bottom here would be the tip of the blade, when casting. You’ll see later what I mean if you don’t get it now, don’t worry.P1010441Use sulfur free clay here and work around the whole model.Why sulfur free? As far as I know clay with sulfur prevents the silicone from curing.So be sure it it 100% sulfur free, not just low sulfur clay.P1010442Shaping the clay at the edges with a small scerwdriver can help sometimes to get the details.P1010443Getting there soon…P1010444
P1010445Can\’t believe it, I ran out of clay…P1010449Alright found clay and the build can go on.I cut the clay block here into a proper size and build up the walls of the box around.
Using hot glue here for it.P1010450Sure the egdes of the clay block are not done here. Will finish this when the box is ready.P1010451When I have a big and especially long box as seen here, I need to add a support for the walls.
Otherwise the huge amount of silicone will bend the walls. That doesn’t look good nor will this save me any silicone, and that box might burst.
It’s similar to huge fish tanks, they also have a support like these, it prevents them from breaking. I prefer to have a burst mold box over a burst fish tank, though.P1010452
P1010454The box is ready, now I can fill the gaps around the clay block. P1010455The mold box is almost ready.P1010456Registration keys. These are essential for two-part molds.
With them I can easily put together both mold parts for the cast.I’m using the cap of a pen here to make the keys.P1010459
P1010457carving a vent and the pour spout.P1010458The box is ready, the silicone can come now!P1010461Next for you: mold making.

What you need is:

  • silicone
  • measuring cups, modelling sticks
  • disposable gloves, respirator, safety goggles

Wear safety garnments for mold making and casting.
You don\’t want to have these liquids on your skin!
I won’t explain you the whole process of mold making, since there are a lot of videos and tutorials out there, which clrearly show you how to do it :)
So this is only a short summary of the process.Gathering here all the tools I need.P1010464Pouring part A of the bucket into the cup.P1010465Calculating the amount of part B (green liquid) here.P1010466Mixing both together.P1010467Mix it very well.P1010468Then pouring it into the mold box.P1010470On the next day I can remove the clay I used.P1010471Cleaning here the mold from the leftover clay and some silicone that went under the blade.P1010472The mold is almost ready for the second part.P1010473Covering the whole first half of the mold.P1010474And adding of course the support for the mold again.P1010475Here is the second half done.P1010476And here are both halfs together.P1010477

What you need here for the cast is:

  • polyurethane resin
  • measuring cups, modelling sticks
  • disposable gloves, respirator, safety goggles

Dusting the mold with iron powder here to ge the metallic effect for the blade.P1010479Preparing the mold box for the cast.P1010480And here’s the first pull of the blade. On the floor is the master, the one I sculpted.P1010481Buffing out the surface with steel wool.P1010482
P1010483Looking much shinier now.P1010484Weathering the leather before I put everything together.P1010485Comparison with the master and the first cast. With ‘blood’ on it.P1010486
P1010487Project done :)final1a


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